Setting off fairly early in the morning, we had a lovely scenic route with the wind blowing through our hair as the blue sky’s meant we could have the roof down. Passing through several towns and villages including Thiviers, and Chalus treating ourselves to a couple of freshly baked pain au raisins from a Patisserie on route, before arriving in Limoges our next stop at 11 am. Having safely parked the car in the private car park and checked in to our slightly dated but good size room over looking the front of the hotel Best Western Hotel Richelieu, we set off to explore the town.
The receptionist kindly supplied us with a map and pointed out various attractions and restaurant recommendations. Limoges was made famous for its medieval enamels on copper in the Middle Ages, and since the eighteenth century its china and oak barrels for cognac. It is split into four quarters, the old quarter is in the west was the residences and shops for the butchers of Limoges. Tucked away amongst the wood and stone buildings typical of this quarter, is the tiny chapel of St- Aurelien in Rue de la Bouchier , built by the butchers between the 14th and 17th century . Inside it is cosy with rows of just two chairs wide on one side and three chairs on the other, each two rows facing each other. Although very small it is still filled with many treasures.
Existing at the top of the cobble streets we pass the covered market designed by the same architect for the Eiffel Tower. It looks very modern, constructed with brick, metal and glass.
The 368 panel frieze around the top depicts pictures of the products sold inside the market.
Tummy’s now rumbling we stop for lunch sat under an umbrella outside admiring the brilliant painting on the side of the building whilst enjoying our salad and chips.
Continuing our tour round the town we relinquished the cool interior of the church of St Michel -des- Lions so named because of the large stone lions that guard the entrance. Building of the church commenced in 1364 and it is easily recognised by its 65 meter high tower with its spire surmounted by a big bronze ball.
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| Town Hall |
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| St Etienne of Limoges |
Passing the Pavillion de Verdurier,the original cold store for the town, with its stunning enamel tiles and then the Chapel of Jesuit College which was created to provide the best education to the 500 boys of the nobility and trading bourgeoisie of Limousin, before reaching the tourist office where we boarded the petit train to view the rest of the town.The temperature rose as we passed the Gare de Benidictines, Emanuel Museum, St Etienne of Limoges church with its stunning facade,the botanical gardens and town hall.
With our shorts and t shirts sticking to us we retreated back to the cool of the hotel to have a siesta before making our way to Chez Alphonse, an excellent restaurant recommended by the hotel. No menu, just chalk boards that are moved near your table for you to choose from. With the evening still warm we sat outside opposite the market. Using the little bit of french we know and a translator app on the itouch we made our choices, just hopping it was what we thought. Andy’s starter was the homemade terrine which is bought out in the dish it is cooked in and left on the table for you to take as much or as little as you want. My filleted sardines on fresh tomato puree were fantastic as was the main of pork on very rich buttery (professional) lumpy mash with a cream mushroom sauce whilst Andy enjoyed the steak with dauphinoise potatoes. I think I won the best dishes! It was a lovely evening and would definitely return again.
To aide digestion and to reduce the feeling of being very full we had one last wander around part of the town in the cool of the evening, messing around with camera shutter speeds trying to capture the movement of the water fountains before retiring to bed.
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